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Post by dynomike on Aug 26, 2020 17:28:17 GMT -7
Al, I was referring to the super glue gel.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2020 18:02:39 GMT -7
Al, I was referring to the super glue gel. AHA ! well, I don't have a preference. but I like Jeff's choice.  |
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Post by AJR on Aug 26, 2020 19:31:57 GMT -7
Al, I was referring to the super glue gel. That's funny  ! I wasn't sure if you were asking me that or something else but I answered you. When Al answered I thought I was wrong and deleted my post....lol. I have been using Gorilla Super Glue Gel for quite awhile and am very happy with it. As with any bonding, the surfaces need to be scuffed up and free of any oil. A little bit of super glue goes a long way. |
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Post by dynomike on Aug 26, 2020 19:56:09 GMT -7
Thanks Jeff, thats what I wanted to know.
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Post by wbj on Aug 28, 2020 13:13:37 GMT -7
Next up is the pickup shoes. Since we are drag racing attention doesn’t have to be as keen as if you are setting up the chassis for road racing. What we need to focus on is getting the shoes to sit flat on the rail. You’ll need a piece track to help in this setup. The stock AW shoes are fine enough and with a few simple tweaks they will do the job. Take your running chassis and put it up on a piece of track. You will need to look at how the pickups are sitting on the track rails. Concentrating on how that shoe hits the rail. Is it toe heavy, heal heavy or is it bowed in any manner? What we need to do is in the case of it being heavy one way or another is to bend the shoe. Take a needle nose pliers and bend the shoe at the second bend. (That’s the bend in the shoe just down from the slot where it hooks on the front of the chassis.) A little tweak/bend at time and then placing the shoe back on the chassis checking how it sits on the rail. Continue doing this until you get the shoe sitting flat on the rail from end to end. This step typically takes a few tries before you get right. Now if the shoe is concave you need to make it flat. This can usually be done by flattening them between the jaws of a small (smooth jaw) pliers. Then checking the shoes on the chassis to make sure they are sitting flat. The next step is to give them a quick sanding on a fine stone to make sure they are good and flat. Getting the shoes to sit flat and contact the rail from end to end is paramount! Time taken here is well spent.
To be continued!
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Post by wbj on Aug 28, 2020 13:17:43 GMT -7
That's interesting... could you give some detail on how they were deformed? How long did you lapped them and at what voltage? I'm curious. You're asking me to dig back in to the foggy part of my memory. It seems like about 10 minutes and probably 9 volts. I wish I could answer your question. I've used various different compounds from toothpaste to valve lapping compound with good results. |
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Post by GTS on Aug 28, 2020 17:27:41 GMT -7
Great information WBJ!! Thank you for taking the time to compile and post all of that. A very good road map for anyone to have a competitive car. I'm posting a link to the cluster gear modification that I have been doing for awhile now. This eliminates "peening" of the rivet and actually allows for adjustment in the cluster gear. A definite upgrade. Screw size is 0-80 3/16" Washer M1.6 x 4mm x 0.3mmand can be found on Ebay. Link is below. nitroslots.com/thread/4246/4g-cluster-kitOne other suggestion is to always glue the armature gear, crown gear, and rear wheels. I glue every one of them in all classes. I have had too many come loose during a race....I do not trust press fit on anything. I use regular gel super glue for this. On anything Comp Class and up I solder the armature gear. Just a couple of things I do.... Jeff, I love this upgrade! Thanks for posting, it had escaped me in previous readings.
Stopped by my local hardware store to get some K&S brass and they had some 0-80 x 3/16" pan head screws also, so picked up a half dozen. They were out of the .035" allen wrench though. When I got home I discovered that the .035 hex head wrench was the same that fit some of my old Wizzard Patriot brush cans  . Pretty easy upgrade and what an improvement in the stabilization of the cluster gear. I used an axel spacer I had for the washer and it seems to work fine. I will definitely be taking the time to upgrade all my modified 4 gear cars with this! Thanks again |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2020 19:24:54 GMT -7
you can do that for the AFX style chassis too.
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Post by dave632 on Aug 29, 2020 8:24:13 GMT -7
I have modified many more AFX 3 gears than I have 4 but most of the improvements that work on 3 gears work on 4 also.
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Post by dynomike on Sept 6, 2020 13:25:26 GMT -7
What is the wheel and tire combonation of choice for the upcoming Texas race for a 4gear roadster or altered?
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Post by dave632 on Sept 6, 2020 15:25:58 GMT -7
I usually go for the .550 size but some have success with larger and smaller tires.
The big AFX dragster tires which are about .600 are to big and heavy for drag racing.
I am running them on the dragster I am sending to Jeff's just for the look of it. My Altered kills
the dragster in ET and one reason is the heavy rear tire on the dragster.
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Post by wbj on Sept 6, 2020 17:37:49 GMT -7
So if you followed the instructions laid out above, you should have a smooth running four gear chassis. Some other things that should be looked at to help drop those e.t.’s.
Front tires – replace the standard front tires with #5 o-rings. This will help reduce rolling resistance and provide in many cases a truer rolling tire. Also check the front axle and make sure that it is not bent. Many that come from the factory are not straight.
Rear tires - many options are available here. But getting a good silicone tire will be a big improvement over the stock tire.
Brushes – make sure that you take the edge off of the brush the faces the armature (comm). This allows a better transition as the armature spins over the brushes.
Brush pockets – check that the brushes move easily up and down. In some cases there is flash that needs to be addressed.
Traction magnets – Pop out the traction magnet on the passenger side of the chassis. One traction magnet should more than handle a stock setup.
A very good pancake racer told me it all boils down to this, reduce all points of binding, plus eliminate as much friction and vibration as possible. It’s that simple! Enjoy!! |
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Post by nosubfor3 on Nov 3, 2020 8:45:00 GMT -7
How do you peen the holes? Any pics for the peening?
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Post by skillet on Nov 3, 2020 17:28:10 GMT -7
Small hammer and a punch. Peening
is just smashing the hole smaller. I can get some pics if you need after work. Depending on wich hole your after you may have to cut a piece of wood to put in-between the chassie so its not trying to roll over. Sam/Skillet
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Post by ecbill on Nov 3, 2020 18:46:08 GMT -7
How do you peen the holes? Any pics for the peening? RC Lincoln of Wizzard has a good UTube video in peening the holes. The tool he uses looks a lot like a modified wheel puller tool. see kink below |
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! I wasn't sure if you were asking me that or something else but I answered you. When Al answered I thought I was wrong and deleted my post....lol. I have been using Gorilla Super Glue Gel for quite awhile and am very happy with it. As with any bonding, the surfaces need to be scuffed up and free of any oil. A little bit of super glue goes a long way.
. Pretty easy upgrade and what an improvement in the stabilization of the cluster gear. I used an axel spacer I had for the washer and it seems to work fine. I will definitely be taking the time to upgrade all my modified 4 gear cars with this!
