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Post by cozwurth on Dec 15, 2023 19:51:50 GMT -7
I spun the motor up with no idler earlier this evening. It sounded smooth, so I put the idler back in and lapped the gears with a polishing glaze with the chassis on a 9V battery. The car is smoother now, and does not get hot or stutter like it was. It is faster, but not drastically. I can still hold the controller wide open all the way around the track. The chassis is a Dash mondo grip, so it does have the traction magnets. I swapped in a set of Dash molded polymer magnets to see if there was a change. These are the same magnets as in the Blizzard chassis. No change that I could see. Still wide open all around. Arm swap next, I guess.
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Post by cozwurth on Dec 15, 2023 19:53:47 GMT -7
Forgot to mention, my JL chassis is a 14T pinion, not a 12 like I posted earlier. I assumed 12, and did not count the teeth until tonight.
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Post by ecbill on Dec 15, 2023 20:59:10 GMT -7
I spun the motor up with no idler earlier this evening. It sounded smooth, so I put the idler back in and lapped the gears with a polishing glaze with the chassis on a 9V battery. The car is smoother now, and does not get hot or stutter like it was. It is faster, but not drastically. I can still hold the controller wide open all the way around the track. The chassis is a Dash mondo grip, so it does have the traction magnets. I swapped in a set of Dash molded polymer magnets to see if there was a change. These are the same magnets as in the Blizzard chassis. No change that I could see. Still wide open all around. Arm swap next, I guess. Sometimes the Dash Mondo traction magnets are too strong and will slow your car down, especially on the dragstrip. Have found that going to taller tires or changing magnets to 3mm x 2mm instead of the stock 3mm x 3mm, will improve performance. |
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Post by cozwurth on Dec 16, 2023 5:24:28 GMT -7
Hmmm... I have taller AFX sized tires on the back now, but I also moved the traction mags down in the tubes to get them close to the track. I'll move them back up as far as I can and see if there is an improvement. This makes sense, now that you've prodded me to think about it a little differently. See if I'm on the right track here. With road racing magnet cars you want as much downforce as possible to keep the car on the track around the corners. With drag racing you want just enough to give good traction off the line. Obviously no corners to worry about. If I still need to swap arms, I do have a 5.5 ohm 3 lam arm from OS3 that I recently installed in an AFX Vega gasser. Will a 3 lam arm work better for drag racing than the 2 lam arm in the car now?
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Post by skillet on Dec 16, 2023 8:48:45 GMT -7
2 or 3 may not show a huge difference... when you get into more lams (thinner) it takes away from poor Eddie. Eddie is who drags on your armature metal. Instead of one piece of metal with a big Eddie drag you start making lams and seal them from each other takes away from that Eddie dragging on the arm. So in theory 3 would be better...
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Post by skillet on Dec 16, 2023 8:51:01 GMT -7
Try putting shunts... I don't know.. I have some dash stuff with what I think is thin steal plating? I don't know I sure beat the crap out of a couple of them trying to get going... fingers are to weak... I couldn't get everything where I wanted without shunts
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Post by dave632 on Dec 16, 2023 10:14:34 GMT -7
I had good luck with those 5.5 arms.
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Post by ecbill on Dec 16, 2023 11:34:19 GMT -7
Earlier Dash chassis had thin stampings. More recent ones are thicker. The change took place around the same time that they switched to solid rivets vs hollow rivets.
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Post by cozwurth on Dec 16, 2023 14:47:54 GMT -7
I'll have to look at the rivets, but this tub should have been from a later batch since I just ordered them recently.
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Post by cozwurth on Dec 16, 2023 14:51:34 GMT -7
I messed around with the AFX Vega that I put the 5.5 ohm OS3 arm in. With the original magnets it was smooth but a bit on the sluggish side. I put a set of killer bees in it, and it woke it up quite a bit. I'll try out the other Dash Blizzard magnets, too. I may swap arms between the two chassis.
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Post by cozwurth on Dec 23, 2023 20:02:06 GMT -7
2 or 3 may not show a huge difference... when you get into more lams (thinner) it takes away from poor Eddie. Eddie is who drags on your armature metal. Instead of one piece of metal with a big Eddie drag you start making lams and seal them from each other takes away from that Eddie dragging on the arm. So in theory 3 would be better... I've been pulling the gear plates to check magnets and document the OHM ratings as I clean them, looking at factory combinations. The faster cars all have 3 lam arms in them, even if they have a higher OHM rating. I guess I'll be ordering some new 3 lam arms to go in these two chassis and save my mean greens for some future non-drag racing projects. |
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Post by dave632 on Dec 24, 2023 7:54:03 GMT -7
Never found much difference between 2-3-4 lamination arms in my testing.
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