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Post by nosubfor3 on Mar 4, 2012 7:17:07 GMT -7
Any truth to the rumor Tomy is discontinuing the Super G+ platform? I have been looking for the motor brush end bells and only found a couple vendors that sell them. $5.00-$10.00. WOW!
Might switch to TYCO.
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Post by slotcar58 on Mar 4, 2012 12:14:42 GMT -7
Yes, the Tomy G-Plus and TOMY Turbo/SRT have been discontinued because of the excessive/expensive testing required by CA for all children's toy. I would not worry to much about the availability of replacement parts like endbells, since BSRT carries Tomy parts and many BSRT G3 parts are interchangeable with TOMY including the endbells. Hope this helps.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Mar 4, 2012 16:30:56 GMT -7
Yes, the Tomy G-Plus and TOMY Turbo/SRT have been discontinued because of the excessive/expensive testing required by CA for all children's toy. I would not worry to much about the availability of replacement parts like endbells, since BSRT carries Tomy parts and many BSRT G3 parts are interchangeable with TOMY including the endbells. Hope this helps.
That's not good. Any body try to slam a body on the mega G?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2013 7:36:39 GMT -7
Some sellers take advantage by charging people BS money for SG+ endbells/bulkheads when the brushes wear out.... What I do is, I pick up new replacement bulkheads (pick up three for no more than ten bucks) for the Mabuchi motors for the Tomy/AFX Turbo or SRT chassis from slotcarsdirect.co.uk or even complete replacement can motors (about two - three bucks a pop, just look under the Tomy Turbo/SRT chassis section). As these motors uses the identical armatures, springs and brushes as the SG+, I simply remove the leaf springs and brushes assembilies from the Mabuchi motor bulkhead and replace them into the SG+ bulkhead. To do this, you must be very careful and cut off small tabs that holds the springs in place and use super glue to hold them in place when replacing them. For the price of one replacement SG+ bulkhead, you have enough for three pairs of replacement brushes. The other way to solve this problem is to get rid of the leaf brush springs setup altogether and replace the SG+ bulkead and armature with a Decosmo T+ bulkhead (or a Tyco 440x2 bulkhead if you know what you're doing) and a armature from any HO slot car that runs brush tubes, such as a Wizzard, Tyco 440x2, Mega G etc. By going to a setup that uses brush tubes, you can fit threaded brush tubes from anyone of the aftermarket parts suppliers (Wizzard or BSRT) as this would allow you to adjust the brush tension and also make brush replacement a lot easier. The reason that you need to change the armature is because the armature commutator timing is different between the leaf spring and brush tube setups - the positions of the brushes are 90 degrees out between the two. Once you have changed to the brush tube setup, there is a lot of options in terms of aftermarket support.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 20, 2014 15:53:13 GMT -7
Has anyone installed adjustable brush barrels in a Super G+ chassis with a Decosmo T bulk head? I have been searching the net and found zippo.
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Post by pceng on Dec 20, 2014 16:23:26 GMT -7
Has anyone installed adjustable brush barrels in a Super G+ chassis with a Decosmo T bulk head? I have been searching the net and found zippo. G3....... every G+ I've had has broken. |
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 21, 2014 3:16:19 GMT -7
Has anyone installed adjustable brush barrels in a Super G+ chassis with a Decosmo T bulk head? I have been searching the net and found zippo. G3....... every G+ I've had has broken. How did you get the hole drilled in the chassis to align with the holes in the bulk head? Did you make a jig or just eyeball it? Do you have a pic? |
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2014 6:45:43 GMT -7
G3....... every G+ I've had has broken. How did you get the hole drilled in the chassis to align with the holes in the bulk head? Did you make a jig or just eyeball it? Do you have a pic? Not trying to be funny , but good question. I recently got some big foot tubes. Wizard , have collar around threaded end of tube. And a raised stipling to aid in holding bulkhead. Struck me as a good idea......... better seating. Did not realize the new tubes were different from the older ones I put in G 3. Perhaps the old ones were from Slottech (not sure). Difference between the two is total lenght of barrel. New are longer. Collared portion plus thickness of chassis wall longer. While at first I thought the collar a good idea........ I was putting new barrels in chassis that had brush tubes to begin with. Holes through chassis that already lined up. Collared portion sat flat to chassis and made nice fit. Easy to get at screws also. While good for replacing tubes that project trough chassis. The new tubes (w/collar) are a problem with chassis that do not have hole in chassis for brush tube. The tubes I put in G3 do not project from chassis. They fit inside of it. So lining up holes is not necessary. Holes in chassis need to expose screw, not whole barrel. Old tubes have raised portion that stops barrel and aligns with bulkhead. Holes in my G3 are off some but brush, spring, and screw pass through. If when looking at side of chassis hole needs to be just forward and below existing hole for bulkhead to snap into. If you pictured a line extending down from the leading edge of clip hole. And one going forward from bottem edge.......... The resulting corner is where hole for tube need be. I bored holes with dremel, then enlarged with tip of x-acto to expose screw. Not perfect but funcional. New tubes, or those with collar are great for chassis with adjustable brushes. But can be headache for anything else. Hope this helps........... Peter |
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2014 7:44:59 GMT -7
Looked at DeCosmo chassis....... holes in sides for tubes are elongated top to bottem. They are also large enough for big foot tubes to pass through. Though the tubes I had in one and are in another do not reach into hole. They stop at chassis wall.
Should be able to make pattern from DeCosmo then maybe jig. I'll get back later on this. Have a few things to do today.
.......... Peter
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Post by nosubfor3 on Dec 21, 2014 13:18:03 GMT -7
Looked at DeCosmo chassis....... holes in sides for tubes are elongated top to bottem. They are also large enough for big foot tubes to pass through. Though the tubes I had in one and are in another do not reach into hole. They stop at chassis wall. Should be able to make pattern from DeCosmo then maybe jig. I'll get back later on this. Have a few things to do today. .......... Peter Peter you gave me an idea when you mentioned drilling a hole in the side of the chassis to adjust the screws. I was trying to drill a hole through the chassis for the brush tubes. All I wanted to do was be able to get to the set screws for adjustment. So what I am going to try is this. Get a set of adjustable barrels cut to length to fit inside the chassis,like the Tyco ones do. Then just drill a hole in the side of the chassis to access the set screws. I will let you know how I make out. |
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2014 13:49:41 GMT -7
Both types of barrels came from Lucky Bob's. Didn't think about it last time till now. If you check with him.... let us know if he still has the short barrels.
The longer ones with collar are an improvement for chassis that have holes for such. Nice fit & shunts can be soldered on without interfering with screw.
Was looking at G3 chassis & hole in side for screw. From side outside edge of screw almost touches tab hole (corner). If using big foot tubes hole through chassis for tubes would be inside the corner of tab hole in chassis. Don't know if it would work.
........ Peter
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