How to Video; dis-assemble /re-assemble G3 & Super G chassis

[SKR]

Gary Beedle of BSRT made a couple of great videos on the dis-assembly and re-assembly of  his chassis.


You Tube Videos:

Disassemble

Assemble

  

[gibbo61]

As Mr. Wallace says "search the forum" and B A M .... I find just what I need for my first viper build

[dave632]

I have done that a few hundred times. Good tutorial however.

[pete]

Aug 14, 2020 6:22:43 GMT -7 gibbo61 said:

As Mr. Wallace says "search the forum" and B A M .... I find just what I need for my first viper build

Gibb
Something I have found that makes a difference. Look inside the endbell at the bushing. There is a indentation at the bushing location, the shim you place against that bushing needs to be small in diameter, small enough to fit inside that indent. If a large one is used, your arm spacing won't be a true fit. Over time the shim may bend changing your spacing. If the shim does bend, I feel the shim may bind up and you have friction. Plus a tight fit against the bushing will help keep oil in the bushing and off the comm and outside of the enbell keeping a clean area. Oil mixes with brush dust and you get gunk, it gets hard also making friction over time.

On a stock viper build. Do all your shim spacing on the front of the motor. Caliper number of overall length of arm and shim is between .695 to .700.
I shim them for about .003 end play. When you push the arm back to front you can see your end play. Put the pinion and axle in, hold the wheels between your fingers and let the chassis drop. do this with no magnets. The chassis and axle should feel like water, nice and smooth. When you fire it up, look to make sure the arm isn't trying to bounce. If it does then because you have shimmed everything on the front, the arm will need a .003 spacer on the back pushing the arm forward. Once in a while you will find an arm that wants to be slightly forward. When the motor is running it should just rev and spin with no vibration.

With custom arms that .695 and .700 is still a good number, but you need to find where the arm wants to be without a bounce. AKA the sweet spot.

[AJR]

Aug 16, 2020 6:35:13 GMT -7 pete said:

Aug 14, 2020 6:22:43 GMT -7 gibbo61 said:

As Mr. Wallace says "search the forum" and B A M .... I find just what I need for my first viper build

Gibb
Something I have found that makes a difference. Look inside the endbell at the bushing. There is a indentation at the bushing location, the shim you place against that bushing needs to be small in diameter, small enough to fit inside that indent. If a large one is used, your arm spacing won't be a true fit. Over time the shim may bend changing your spacing. If the shim does bend, I feel the shim may bind up and you have friction. Plus a tight fit against the bushing will help keep oil in the bushing and off the comm and outside of the enbell keeping a clean area. Oil mixes with brush dust and you get gunk, it gets hard also making friction over time.

On a stock viper build. Do all your shim spacing on the front of the motor. Caliper number of overall length of arm and shim is between .695 to .700.
I shim them for about .003 end play. When you push the arm back to front you can see your end play. Put the pinion and axle in, hold the wheels between your fingers and let the chassis drop. do this with no magnets. The chassis and axle should feel like water, nice and smooth. When you fire it up, look to make sure the arm isn't trying to bounce. If it does then because you have shimmed everything on the front, the arm will need a .003 spacer on the back pushing the arm forward. Once in a while you will find an arm that wants to be slightly forward. When the motor is running it should just rev and spin with no vibration.

With custom arms that .695 and .700 is still a good number, but you need to find where the arm wants to be without a bounce. AKA the sweet spot.

Good information Pete! Thanks for sharing!

[wbj]

Here's another link that could help. It's put together by Terry Flynn of Harden Creek.

[Deleted]

the videos are very helpful, thank you.
as Dave says, I have built/rebuilt a few of these but, there where tips that I found helpful.
I notice in the disassembly video that he does NOT use a chassis spreader tool for the chassis.
these seem to be pushed by various manufacturers and some folks will feel the need to purchase.
also, the brush spreader is nice and I guess a good idea.
I have usually used a set of pointed tweezers for the same purpose and that works well for me.
it allows me to hold the endbell in a different fashion which I have grown accustomed to.
however, I see the value of having AND using that tool.
I like Pete's comment about the size of spacers.
"less is more"
and I learned, in Terry's video, how to properly select the correct position of the traction magnets in reference to which side of the car they belong on.
hmmmmmm, old dogs DO learn new tricks.
LOL

[gibbo61]

Hoping to pull the trigger on this build by the weekend. Thanks for all the info & tips

[dave632]

Aug 17, 2020 9:09:27 GMT -7 @alpink said:

the videos are very helpful, thank you.
as Dave says, I have built/rebuilt a few of these but, there where tips that I found helpful.
I notice in the disassembly video that he does NOT use a chassis spreader tool for the chassis.
these seem to be pushed by various manufacturers and some folks will feel the need to purchase.
also, the brush spreader is nice and I guess a good idea.
I have usually used a set of pointed tweezers for the same purpose and that works well for me.
it allows me to hold the endbell in a different fashion which I have grown accustomed to.
however, I see the value of having AND using that tool.
I like Pete's comment about the size of spacers.
"less is more"
and I learned, in Terry's video, how to properly select the correct position of the traction magnets in reference to which side of the car they belong on.
hmmmmmm, old dogs DO learn new tricks.
LOL

I have bought a couple of chassis spreaders for those chassis and have NOT found them to be very useful. The Brush spreader on the other hand is
a very useful tool and I highly recommend that if you are working on these chassis. I have to admit I pay little attention to which side the traction magnets
go on but I will look into it. I will check with my gauss meter and see what difference it makes.

[wbj]

Here's another video for those old and new that might help when building a inline car... some good info here.

[Deleted]

WOW !
OK so now I know about high and low downforce set ups and what effect it has on the magnetic field of the motor magnets.